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Across Missouri on the KATY Trail (Sedalia to St. Charles Missouri) II
October 5 through October 11, 2008
KATY TRAIL
Everyone calls it the KATY Trail. Officially it’s the Lewis and Clark State Park, named of course after the Lewis and Clark Expedition that was ordered by President Jefferson in 1804. The name KATY comes from the railroad that owned the right of way, the Kansas, Oklahoma and Texas Railroad. The railroad closed in the 1950’s and its right of way was taken over by the Federal government under a land lease arrangement. In the late 1980’s the Missouri Department of Natural Resources obtained the right to build a bicycle/pedestrian trail along the rail bed, which mostly parallels the Missouri River. After the great flood of 1993 the trail has become the most popular state park in Missouri and is the longest continuous trail of its kind in the United States. The trail is topped with crushed limestone which provides a hard surface. The trail is most suitable for hybrids or mountain bicycles, but many cyclists ride the trail on road bicycles without difficulty. The complete trail from Clinton to St Charles is 225 miles. Our tour starts in the west at Sedalia and travels east to St Charles, a total of 188 miles.
What to expect on the KATY
This is our eleventh year for taking organized tours along the KATY Trail. Our goal has always been to improve the tour each year with new attractions and opportunities. Perhaps we are doing something right, since we have two ladies who have ridden with us for the past eight years in a row. This is a very enjoyable tour. Our support van meets us two or three times a day on the trail with water, cookies, fruit and conversation. We provide a guide book that has an excellent map, and the DNR provides maps at each of the trail heads. The towns are evenly spaced along the trail. This is because the KATY railroad placed the towns so that every farmer along the route could reach one of the stations within one day with his mule team and wagon.
Most of our tour will be through the farmlands and small towns of rural Missouri. One big exception is our day off the bicycle in Jefferson City, the state capital. We will visit the capitol building which was modeled after our nation’s Capitol in Washington. The Missouri Capitol is famous for a set of murals painted by the artist Thomas Hart Benton.
From Jefferson City we continue east to Missouri’s Rhineland. We will cycle through the main wine growing region of the state, and see many beautiful German towns including Hermann and Augusta. In Hermann we will tour one of the largest vineyards in the United States and will sample some of its award winning wines. Dinner will be at the winery.
Our tour ends in the city of St Charles, launching point of the Lewis and Clark expedition and the first state capital of Missouri. The original capitol building has been restored and reopened as a museum, and the area around it (Old Town) is a fine district for walking, shopping and eating. You will also see the Lewis & Clark Boat Museum and Nature Center (with reproductions of the craft used in the expedition) located in Frontier Park, on the bank of the Missouri River.
For more information about the KATY trail write to moparks@dnr.mo.gov or call 800-877-1234. Another fine on-line source of information about the trail is www.bikekatytrail.com.
Cost of the Tour
The cost is $595.00 per person (double occupancy, single supplement adds $130.00). The tour is limited to 22 people, and lasts 7 days and 6 nights. You will be accompanied by a tour leader and a van driver. The price includes six nights in motels/hotels, breakfast each morning, six evening meals, refreshments provided along the way, a winery tour in Hermann, train ticket to Sedalia from Kirkwood train station, luggage transportation each day, sag and mechanical support along the route, transportation to and from the trail when necessary, and shuttle to and from the train station in Kirkwood.
Itinerary
Day One – Sunday, October 5
Everyone will meet at 8:00 AM at the Touring Cyclist warehouse, 11816 St Charles Rock Road, Bridgeton, Missouri 63044 (telephone 314-739-4648). Those who are coming from out of town can park their car in our secured parking lot, inside a gate that is locked every night. This will be our orientation meeting; a chance for everyone to get to meet each other, discuss the tour, and look at the maps, books, and other information you will receive. The group will then travel by van to the Kirkwood train station to meet the Sedalia-bound Amtrak train. The train leaves at 9:15 AM and arrives in Sedalia at 12:00 Noon. Our van and trailer will transport all the luggage and bicycles separately, and will meet the group at the train station in Sedalia. From there we will drive to the hotel for the night. We will stay at the Fairgrounds Best Western Motel on Highway 65 South & 32nd Street (telephone 600-826-6100). The motel has an indoor swimming pool. After everyone is checked in at the hotel we will take a short ride to the State Fairgrounds and tour the old part of Sedalia, which was founded in the mid 1860’s. Dinner that night will be at the Country Kitchen Restaurant.
Day Two – Monday, October 6
The first day of cycling is from Sedalia to Booneville, a distance of 38 miles. We will have breakfast together beginning at 8:00 AM and will leave the hotel parking lot to start our ride at 9:00 AM. We will pass through the residential part of Sedalia and will reach the KATY Trail itself at the Katy Depot, built in 1896. This historic building, one of the original KATY railroad passenger stations, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and contains excellent railroad heritage exhibits and a gift shop. This is one of the largest depots between Kansas City and St Louis and is a great photo opportunity.
We now head to Booneville. Everyone rides at their own pace and it’s impossible to get lost, since there is only one trail and it leads east to Booneville. You will notice mile markers on the trail as you cycle along, making it easy to pace yourself. Pilot Grove (22 miles down the trail) is a recommended lunch stop. The support vehicle will be waiting there to help you with any needs, mechanical or otherwise. This part of the trail is rather rural and a great opportunity to see Missouri wildlife. Bird watchers should bring your binoculars.
The trail crosses over Interstate 70 near Booneville. From that bridge we ride 1 ½ miles further down the KATY, then turn right onto an auxiliary trail. We ride another ¼ mile to our hotel for the night, on the right of the side trail. Our hotel is the Comfort Inn, I-70 (telephone 660-882-5317). The hotel has an indoor swimming pool and sauna. We will leave at 7:00 PM for the Booneville Casino to eat dinner at their very large and varied buffet. After dinner we will return to the hotel for a good night’s sleep. We will not have a chance to lose any money at the casino tonight since only members can play.
Day Three – Tuesday, October 7
Today we ride 49 miles from Booneville to the North Jefferson trail head, then shuttle to our hotel. We start the day with breakfast at the hotel at 8:00 AM, then retrace yesterday’s path from the hotel back to the main trail. From there the trail takes us through downtown Booneville and its train station and souvenir stores, then across the Missouri River and on east. The Booneville train station and its surrounding buildings are a good photo opportunity, a view of the past. Booneville is a sample of the many smaller towns we will pass through on tour, most of which enjoyed their best years in the 1920’s, 30’s and 40’s, lost population in the great migrations to the big cities, and are now trying to find ways to come back.
There will be two water stops today. The morning stop is at the New Franklin Conservation parking lot (5 miles from Rocheport). The afternoon stop is at McBain. The best choices for lunch are in Coopers Landing, Hartsburg, and McBain. The tavern at McBain is very memorable. For those who wish to sag part of the way, the van will be available at the various stops to take you to the hotel.
Everyone should plan on being at the North Jefferson trail head by 4:00 PM. We will make two shuttle runs to the hotel, the first for early arrivals and the last at 4:00. Don’t try to cycle across the bridge. (The current bridge across the Missouri is too dangerous for bicycles to cross, although a new bridge with a bike path is being built, and may be open by the time of the tour.) Our hotel is the Hotel DeVille, Jefferson City, MO. We will meet in the lobby at 7:00 PM for dinner at the Der Stein Haus, a local German restaurant.
Day Four – Wednesday, October 8
This is our free day off the bicycle with a change to investigate Jefferson City. We will shuttle down to the Capitol Building for a guided tour. The building was completed in 1911, and since its construction was finished under budget, the remaining money was used to pay for decorating the interior. This allowed commission of the famous Thomas Hart Benton murals, which were completed in 1936. The Governor’s Mansion is also within walking distance and is open to the public. With a little luck we will be able to prevail upon a good friend of cyclists to talk with us about the history of Missouri and the state legislative process. The afternoon will be free for writing post cards, doing laundry, reading, going for a swim, relaxing, and getting to know each other better. Dinner that night will be at a local restaurant at 7:00 PM.
Day Five – Thursday, October 9
We cycle 43 miles from Jefferson City trail head to Hermann. We will meet for breakfast at 8:00 AM and begin shuttling people to the trail head at 9:00 AM. From the trail head we head east to the McKittrick trail head, just across the Missouri River from Hermann. Again the bridge across the river is too dangerous to cross via bicycle so we will pick up cyclists at the KcKittrick trail head. The support vehicle will have water stops in the morning at Tebbits, Mochane, Portland (a good lunch option) and Rhineland. Our hotel will be the Vinchester Inn (telephone 573-486-4440). Dinner that night is at the Stone Hill Winery with a tour of the winery.
The City of Hermann was originally settled by German immigrants in the early 1800’s. It sits on several hills overlooking the river, and is a picturesque community offering Old-World hospitality and the quaint charm of an earlier time. Hermann has an abundance of spectacular views, more than 150 historic buildings, quiet inns and B&B’s., world class wineries, museums shops and galleries, and fine dining. The earliest settlers recognized that the town and its surrounding land had tremendous potential for producing fine grapes. Hermann has been at the forefront of the Missouri wine industry since 1837, one year after the town was founded.
Day Six – Friday, October 10
Breakfast today will be at the Riverview restaurant, a couple blocks away from the hotel. After breakfast we will shuttle across the river to McKittrick for today’s 34 mile ride to Augusta. There will be water stops at Treloar (15 miles down the trail) and Marthasville (22 miles down the trail). Lunch is recommended at the Dutzow Deli (26 miles down the trail); the Deli has the best food on the trail, and its chili is superb. Plan on getting to Augusta early, to leave time to walk around the town, visit the wineries and the various local shops that cater to tourists. The group will shuttle across the river to Washington where we will spend the night. Our hotel is the Super 8 (telephone 636-390-0088). Dinner will be down on the riverfront at a local restaurant in Washington.
Augusta is an interesting town, and sits mostly on bluffs overlooking the river valley below. It was incorporated in 1855, and until the 1870’s was a popular riverboat landing until the river changed its course and moved further away from town. Augusta has only 210 residents but has a thriving economy. Much of the tourist interest is due to the revival of the vineyards in the late 1960’s, and there are several successful wineries in town. You should especially visit Mt Pleasant winery. Augusta now also features its own microbrewery, which is where the group will collect to be shuttled to Washington at 4:00 PM. The brewery is at the trail head and is a great place to have a brew and relax while waiting for the van.
Day Seven – Saturday October 11
Cycle from Augusta to St Charles, 26 miles. The group will shuttle across the river after breakfast at 9:00 AM. The ride will start at the trail head in Augusta. There will be a water stop in Weldon Springs, eleven miles down the trail. The van will be at the trail head in St. Charles at 2:00 PM to drop off luggage for those local St. Louisans who are getting picked up there. For those who left their cars in our lot in Bridgeton, the van will transport you to the warehouse immediate thereafter.
You may want to return to St. Charles for a visit to Old Town St Charles, the original capital of Missouri. Here you can visit the original capitol building, see a museum on the waterfront, and walk through Frontier Park. The park has a statue of Lewis & Clark that commemorates the beginning of their expedition to explore the west in 1814. This completes the tour.
Notes and How The Tour Is Run
- This tour starts at mile marker 227 in Sedalia and ends at mile marker 39 in St. Charles, for a total of 188 miles on the trail. The KATY Trail has posted mileage markers every mile.
- The tour starts with a meeting at 8:00 AM Sunday morning at the Touring Cyclist warehouse. This is the place to meet everyone in the group and review the maps, books and other information that will be provided.
- Each morning after breakfast there will be another short meeting to discuss the route for the day, water and lunch opportunities, and recommended sites along the ride.
- The support van carries bottled water and snacks including bananas, apples and cookies. The tour leader rides at the back of the group every day, and has tools and supplies with him to handle minor roadside mechanical problems such as flat tires. The support van has a complete tool kit and a stock of replacement parts for more involved bike repairs if necessary.
- Both the tour leader and the support van driver have cell phones with them. Be aware that there are major gaps in cell phone coverage along portions of the route, so your cell phone won’t always work and even if it does the phone you are calling might not be in range of a tower at that moment. Remember that the tour leader will always be behind you, so just stay on the trail and he will find you.
- Lunch is on your own each day. Recommended lunch stops will be announced at each morning meeting. Don’t expect white tablecloth restaurants, but do expect unique settings and good food.
- The group meets at 7:00 PM each night for dinner, to either walk or be driven to that night’s restaurant.
- The KATY Trail is topped with crushed limestone. The surface is usually hard enough to support narrow road bike tires, but wider tires found on touring bikes, hybrid bikes and mountain bikes are more appropriate. The trail surface sometimes gets soft after heavy rains.
- The trail is mostly flat and straight with gentle curves (since it started out as a railroad roadbed). There is one noticeable grade just outside Sedalia, but most of the ride is slightly downhill. (We are following the Missouri River downstream as is flows to the Mississippi.)
- Pay attention while riding and stay on the trail. The outside edges of the trail surface are soft. The ditches beside the trail often have thorns and thistles that can cause flat tires.
- Equip your bicycle with a bag to carry a rain jacket and other spare clothes, sunglasses, sunscreen, maps, tools to handle flat tires, a camera, money, etc. Carry at least one water bottle; two bottles are highly recommended because there are big gaps between available water sources on parts of the trail. Drink plenty of water each time you meet up with the support van.
- Rain is possible in September, so bring rain gear. Average high temperatures are usually in the 80’s this time of year, but can be variable.
- Bike adjustments can be done in the evenings at the hotel. Let the tour director know if you need any help with your bicycle.
- Most of the towns along the ride are small, and have declined since the heyday of the railroad. The positive side of this is that there are still plenty of old, interesting buildings that haven’t been redeveloped out of existence, and the businesses and restaurants are small, local and personal, not anonymous national chains. Many of these towns are making a comeback as a result of the popularity of the KATY Trail, and the businesses will be very happy to serve you.
- The hotels for this tour, on the other hand, are all national chains, with the exception of our stay in Hermann. Where we can we will eat a full breakfast each morning. Where only a continental breakfast is available, we will supplement that with other food.
- The van driver for this tour has driven this tour more than 10 times for The Touring Cyclist, and does tour support for dozens of bicycle groups along the KATY each year. The tour leader is the president of The Touring Cyclist. He leads multiple tours in Europe each year, and has led numerous tours along the KATY Trail.
- Missouri is a beautiful state and September is a great time to enjoy the scenery and its people.
For more information, contact the tour leader:
Donald N. Humphries
Telephone 314-739-4648
Fax 314-739-4972
Email: donaldh@touringcyclist.com
